Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Eduardo and Maria Portillo

Detail of Nocturno
Nocturno
Yesterday I received these images by email from the extraordinarily talented Eduardo and Maria Portillo, and they quite frankly, made my heart skip a beat. The images show their work that is in a current exhibition 'Azul Indigo' in Caracas celebrating their exquisite use of indigo dying. But its not just about dying: the weave structures and dramatic yarn combinations take the colour exploration to another level. The work is utterly absorbing both from afar and up close: I love the way the ordered grid structure ripples, undulates and surprises as a result of the different yarn characters. 

The artworks aim to capture the various shades of blue that take us through the day; from the inky midnight blue sky, to a sky laden with rain, to the transparent air of the afternoon tinged with golden sunlight.

The exhibition is on until the 27th January. Sadly I won't be able to indulge myself with a trip to Caracas, but should you be nearby, you must go and savour this exhibition.... 









Detail of Nubes

En la Noche 

Detail of En la Noche 
Al Amanecer
Detail of Al Amanecer

Detai lof La Noche


The artists image reflected in an indigo dye vat


UPDATE, 15th March 2013
Here is some text that Eduardo and Maria have sent me translated from the catalogue that accompanies the exhibition. Enjoy.....

 
A Blue Journey
by María Dávila & Eduardo Portillo

Blue, color of multiple meanings, is also the color of hope. Every day dawns and the blue accompanies us in the sky, in the sea and in the distant mountains.

We see the blue in the morning but  in the  afternoon shows transparent with yellow and white. At night it darkens and with the moonlight follows a blue air. With the stars, in the morning, when it's almost dawn, the blue is still there.

Ten years ago, in 2002, when we found the indigo blue and draw travel lines to see the color of the peoples of Southeast Asia, of  the desert´s blue men , the Andean textiles and blue jeans, the eternal blue.

Indigo is obtained from various plants containing "indican" and Indigofera tinctoria L is the most used. As it is  insoluble in water, requiring an alkaline medium and a reducing agent to become soluble. When the vat takes an amber appearance, the fiber is immersed there, extracted  and with the air contact indigo oxidize to become  blue color.

In ancient times, due to its complex preparation process, the indigo vat was restricted to the hands of specialists. Its transformation from yellow-green to infinite variety blues was full of  magic and rigor.

In Venezuela still grows wild the indigo plant which was the base of an important industry for the country in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.

In the highlands of Mérida there remains the memory of using this dye in wool blankets.

The discovery of synthetic indigo in 1880 revolutionized the way to obtain the blue in the world, in a few years replacing the use of natural indigo.

Today indigo culture remains in traditional communities in Asia, Africa and Latin America and in a wide universe of contemporary artists who see in its process a synthesis of history, culture and life.

In the mountains of southwest China, where the golden evening light bathes their endless   and steep terraces planted with rice, Dong people wears blue, almost black, their cotton fabrics dyed in indigo that seems to become waterproof paper after going through a slow and fascinating process of immersion in the juice of some plants and systematic exposure to the sun.

In northeast Thailand, indigo is full of superstition and alchemy. In every home the recipe for its preparation is different, secret ; add brown sugar, pineapple, tamarind, liquor, prove it, smell it, they keep it "alive". There all hands are blue; for a moment everything is blue.

In southern India still there are some indigo plantations, where the rhythmic "dance" of blue bodies in pools of indigo oxygenates the obtained extract , which should be processed until the dye is achieved.

In the Andes, in Africa and Japan, the art, study, research, trial and error are present in every indigo vat. To travel in search for Indigo  could be itself  a motive for a lifetime, every "vat" is different, each vision is unique, we  decided to try to find our own blue. After this intense experience, we interlaced the blue with our searchs and then brought them into the loom.

After a necessary pause we have resumed the pleasure found years ago, exploring the art of indigo dyeing, immersed in their vats again and over again, and we brought it to textiles structures that move us to get closer to blue moments of everyday: the night, the moon, the sky, the clouds, dawn, dusk, moments of everybody, moments filled with blue.

We have tried to fuse into the blue  the silk from Mérida, moriche palm from the Orinoco river´s delta, the wool of the Andes, and cotton, dyed in indigo and complementing it with other natural sources of color (cochineal, eucalyptus and onion) and with metallic yarns.

The space is constructed using blocks and mosaics born from triple weave , which is based on the interlacement of three layers of warp yarns advancing simultaneously and independently  while is weaving each one of them, therefore it should be weave three times the length  of the fabric obtained.

The various combinations of blues are revealed by Taqueté, an ancient textile structure , based on the sequences of  three or four colors yarn groups in the weft or in the warp

Today we celebrate the encounter, a blue vision of the world, a vision about the universal indigo blue, navigating the collective imaginary of some moments of the day and we endevour to get them into the space of the wide textile world.-

Dec 2012

Saturday, December 1, 2012

W&Q






How exciting is this?! I can't tell you how much I just love this work: some of my favourite preoccupations of saturated colour, graphic patterns and triaxial weave constructions have been explored to such dramatic effect by this wonderful new design duo W&Q. They have taken an entirely fresh approach to traditional bamboo woven furniture which has so much market potential..... I can't wait to see this work available commercially. Do check out their website for lots more inspiring images.

Monday, November 19, 2012

Jason Collingwood


Jason Collingwood is a master rug weaver of international repute, in demand for both his work and his teaching. He hand-weaves wonderfully graphic designs that have gravitas and great visual impact. Do check out his online gallery, as he has a huge catalogue of inspiring designs that can be commissioned in whatever colours you might choose. These are some of my personal favourites......






Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Linda Green





I first saw Linda Greens work at the brilliant Follow a Thread exhibition at Ruthin Craft Centre. It was one of the best exhibitions I'd ever seen celebrating textiles, which saw me visit and revisit the show time and time again. One of the bodies of work that kept drawing me back was the exquisite 'Exploring Structure' series by Linda, a tapestry graduate of the Royal College of Art and Edinburgh College of Art.

A series of 21 miniature woven studies were created on pieces of found wood, shells and other ephemera upon which the textile remained. It's a delightful depiction of the fact that to weave, you just need 'something' to hold your warp threads taught, for you to then interlace the weft over and under. I love the fact that the 'loom' is not only a functional tool, but an imperative part of the resultant textile artwork. The series was displayed in a linear landscape arrangement, propped up on a shelf against a wall, and the pieces seemed to just dance from one to another. The tiny scale commanded you to look closely and appreciate the minutiae of the fibre and yarn surface in a way that you'd otherwise overlook.


The exhibition toured to Dovecot after it left Ruthin Craft Craft Centre, and you can see some more images of Linda's work in situ, as well as some of the other exhibits on the Innovative Craft Flickr photostream

Monday, October 29, 2012

Jane Harper




Jane Harper is the 2012 recipient of the Peter Collingwood Charitable Trust Award for innovation in weaving. The award aims to recognize excellence for a loom-based textile and I know that this years winner would certainly have piqued Peters curiosity. Jane has created some highly complex multi-layered constructions which have become truly 3-dimensional once off loom. The layers are separated and held proud from the ground cloth with insertions of acrylic sheet.


Jane is recent Textile Design graduate from Central Saint Martins, and this work is from her final degree collection which she entitled Collapsable Constructions. She has now moved back to her home city of Manchester where she aims to use her award towards setting up her own studio. She hopes to develop her structural textiles into functional works that could be used in an interior context. 


Do check out her new website for more images of her degree work.

Sunday, September 30, 2012

Ismini Samanidou, Crafts Study Centre


My blogging and exhibition visiting activity has been somewhat curtailed in recent times due to me very happily becoming a Mum. However, at the beginning of September I was delighted to be able to stop at the Craft Study Centre in Farnham en route home from Canterbury, to visit Ismini Samanidou's solo exhibition entitled Topography: recording place - mapping surface. Now extended until the 6th Oct, the show is absolute treat, giving an insight into Ismini's design process as well as presenting intriguing jacquard woven lengths. I always relish the opportunity to see samples, design sketches, mood boards, colour studies, yarn wraps etc, as they demonstrate pure, instinctive exploration that has yet to be synthesized into the 'final' work. The wall of cloud study samples was perhaps my favourite part of the exhibition for this very reason. Structural explorations of diverse surafce qualities in unusual yarns on the dobby handloom made a very welcome compliment to the jacquard woven artworks which I am so familiar with. It was also a delight to see her handmade fan reeds which were made whilst on a British Council residency in Bangladesh. These were used to weave some exquisite fabrics, which you can see alongside.

So, I urge you in the few days left to catch the exhibition before the work travels to the Center for Craft Creativity and Design in the USA. There is also a beautiful and insightful catalogue to accompany the show.

wisteria, momijigari, siberia and thread installation

'Cloud weavings'

Siberia lengths and cloud weavings

Watercolour and yarn wrap colour study

Hand woven fabric of varying density

woven interpretation of the texture photographs
 
Hand made fan reeds

Hand made fabrics woven with the hand made reeds

CNC routed wood replicating woven surfaces

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Sian O'Doherty

 
Sian O'Doherty is one of my very talented graduates from the BA Textiles course I teach on in Coleg Sir Gar. She won the Lucienne Day Award at New Designers this year, and has many other accolades under her belt including the second prize in the Hand & Lock embroidery competition in 2010. Her final year collection was an ambitious exploration into highly complex quadruple cloth structures incorporating hand manipulated floats and an eye-popping colour palette. Some of the woven structures were developed into digital prints for upholstery and covetable cushions covers. This is a weaver to watch: she's going places......
 

 






 

Photographs by Dan Staveley